How to choose and wear a double-breasted suit?

Ermenegildo Zegna

I've been watching the runways in Milan this last week for Spring 13 collections and one of the styles that stood out for me across the board was the double breasted jacket/suit. As expected on the runways, it wasn't shown just as the classic conservative version, but was shown done in bright colors and different fabric and patterns which added a lot of fun to break away from the formal and dressy. So i thought just in case you will get inspired for next spring, here are few style tips to help you get the right double breasted jacket...

Gucci

Ports 1961

1. Fitted and tailored - double breasted jacket is one that MUST be tailored to your waist and torso, otherwise it will look bad. when wearing a one or two button jacket you can get away with a bit of a looser fit but similar to a 3 button jacket the double breasted has to hug your body and be fitted. Generally speaking the double breasted looks best on men of medium or tall build.
2. Picked lapels - this is the classic on a double breast jacket, the peak lapels accentuates the shoulders and work nicer with the natural style of the jacket. you can still mix the classic and new by choosing picked lapel that are just thinner rather than the classic wide ones.
3. Four buttons or more - to highlight the fit of the jacket choose a jacket that has at least a four-button closure, meaning two rows of two buttons (make sure to have one additional closure button on the inside of the jacket). This way the neck opening of the jacket is smaller which will make the it more fitted and trimmer. keep in mind that even when you have a six button jacket keep the to two unbuttoned otherwise it will look outdated. stay away from two buttons jacket, it will look too 80's and more like a robe than a tailored jacket.

Spring 2011 Must have - Military shirt

BOAZ small gingham military shirt

The military inspired shirt (or as GQ called it the Epaulette shirt), is the dominating spring/summer style in stores this  season....almost as if it is the new classic shirt that every guy should have in his wardrobe.
In its behalf i will say that it's a very masculine style and a great complimentary for a man's body type! The militant details like the epaulets or the front flap pockets are ones that always look good and add to it the fact that the runway shows have strongly adapted the militant inspiration, and you got yourself a winner for these up and coming hot days!
As always for me the most important part to look for in a shirt is the fit! if the shirt is big and loose than all these above masculine details will make you look like a potato bag rather than A man of style! and we obviously dont want that to happen...Go for a slim fit style or just get a smaller size, let the body of the shirt snug and hug your body and look for a higher armhole so the sleeves will not be too baggy....the fitted shoulders will enhance the impact of the epaulets adding power to your style, so when you roll up your sleeves all this hard work at the gym will pay off...check out our BOAZ shirts for a great fit!

Todd Snyder

As far as colors and fabric choices i would stay with solid colors or subtle smaller stripes and gingham/plaids patterns, it will keep your style sophisticated  which can work for both work and pleasure...stay away  from big load prints and other logos and embroideries......unless its your beach shirt.
Unless you have a fitted athletic body no need to to tack the shirt it, especially if what you'd like to put out there is a younger, cooler feel. At times a tie can be a fun addition which in that case go for a solid color shirt and a casual, cotton, fun tie.....nothing too serious and no silk please!
A military shirt will go great with jeans, or chino and depends on the style could pair with trousers as well.
One last tip - i would stay away from short sleeves and much rather roll up the sleeves...unless young and stylish is not your thing!

Gucci

Burberry

Milan Menswear Fall 2011 - Gucci

Luxury and elegance for the metropolitan dandy = GUCCI.
For Fall 2011 creative director Frida Giannini Stayed true to the Gucci brand and what it stands for, working with rich materials such as crocodile skins and Mongolian lamb and keeping the signature  Equestrian details and the incredible crafted bags (which i found to be a bit too feminine this time around) as its main focus....  some will call it vanity while others will afford to buy it...
Her form-fitted sharp suits (my favorite) offered single or double breasted jackets with peaked lapels and trousers with a leg shaped that got slightly flared at the bottom.  The overcoats were long, double breasted with 70's inspired lapels and were paired with long chunky scarves creating a voluminous look inspired by the likes of Rod Stewart and Mick Jagger. The color palate offered shades of browns and powdery pinks with shots of intense purples and blues.

Designer of the week - week three Neil Barrett

This week's designer of the week is the British (what a shocker....) native Neil Barrett, one of the most innovative, independent talents in contemporary menswear and a leader of the deconstruction movement in menswear. Working and living in Milan Neil fuses classical tailoring with directional technology, or as he describes it "50% perfect and 50% aged and destroyed" focusing on a minimalist look with functional twist, or in other words..... the guy simply understands men and know what they want to wear!
Following two generations of tailors (his grandfather and great grandfather) it was almost a given that Neil would choose a career as a fashion designer. After graduating from Central Saint Martin's School of Art and Design and earning a Master’s degree in men's fashion design at the Royal college of art in London, Neil begun his journey (early 90's) in Florence working for Gucci. His talent was quickly acknowledged and he was promoted to senior menswear designer (not a bad start by any means.....). Five years later he launched Prada's first men's wear collection and under his direction, Prada became renowned among fashion insiders as the forerunner of "minimalist" menswear. After his success with these two fashion houses the next step was inevitable and in 1999 the Neil Barrett brand was launched with a men's collection. In 2002 collaborated with Puma for a collection of athletic shoes that was available mostly in clothing stores rather than the traditional network of sports stores. A year later Puma named him Creative Director for a series of technical collections starting with Italy’s National Football Team. Team Italia wore Neil Barrett’s "on pitch kit" training and formal wear exclusively, ultimately winning the 2004 European Cup title and the 2006 world cup title (for those who don't know these are two of the most prestigious trophies in football (soccer)). Barrett became the first fashion designer ever to have exclusively dressed a national football team.
Barrett's design philosophy is simple: understanding what men want from their wardrobe! In his own words: "it isn't about changing clothes every week - it's about loving favorite pieces and wearing them to death, men don't want to look as if they've just walked off a runway" (well... i sometimes do but generally speaking show me one man who disagrees with him????) "It is too easy to color something up crazily to give it interest he adds, referring to his love for navy, white, black and grey. Anybody can do that. Up close with my clothes there's a lot going on with the seaming, pocketing or finishing. It's a balance between interest given to a garment without making it farcical, the number-one Neil Barrett style is treating fabrics as if they've been lived in. I try to make men look masculine and credible, while most designers throw out either a sexual, fey boys or exaggerated super-macho men. It's one extreme or the other on the runway and not a lot to do with how real guys want to dress. You should look at a Neil Barrett show and either want to be that man, or want him" ....that is a long quote but one that sums him up....... once again...the guy just simply understands men and know what they want to wear!
His signature looks of rumpled leather jackets, sharply cut suits, and skinny jeans with a lived-in quality, intricate details, innovative finishes and meticulously chosen fabrics earned him a Hollywood following of A-Listers fans such as Brad Pitt, Mark Ruffalo, Ewan McGregor
Currently the Neil Barrett brand is on its 10th year and includes men's, women's and accessories lines. It is being fully produced in Italy by a Tuscan factory dedicated solely to producing Neil Barrett men's, and sold around the world through its own store and other retailers including online at Thecorner.com and Antonioli.eu.

LOOKS FROM THIS LAST FALL 2010 SHOW IN MILAN

LOOKS FROM SPRING 2010

LOOKS FROM FALL 2009

Photos by GQ

P.S
I saw the following Q&A on business week and thought it gives a deeper understanding of the designer's philosophy:

>THE FIRST RULE OF DESIGN IS... always follow your instinct
> I FIRST STARTED... by following the family tradition of tailoring
> I GET MY INSPIRATION FROM... my surroundings
> IT IS IMPORTANT TO BE AN INDIVIDUAL BECAUSE... it drives you to achieve more in life
> I FIRST REALIZED I WANTED TO BE A FASHION DESIGNER WHEN... it turned out to be the easiest subject I studied
> THE MOTHER OF INVENTION IS... Rei Kawakubo, founder of Comme des Garçons and the most inventive of all designers
> A GOOD IDEA... comes to you when you least expect it
> SPORTSWEAR IS... a word generically overused to describe anything not tailored
> THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN WORKING FOR A LARGE COMPANY AND MY OWN COMPANY IS... responsibility
> INNOVATION IS KEY BECAUSE... it inspires
> UP CLOSE, MY DESIGNS... come to life, the attention to detail and proportion can be appreciated
> MEN LOOK BEST... when they appear not to have tried too hard
> I'VE ALWAYS BELIEVED... in pushing myself
> THE KEY TO DESIGNING AN ON-PITCH FOOTBALL STRIP FOR THE ITALIAN TEAM IS... understanding what they want
> THE BEST WAY TO RELAX IS... sleep
> MY FAVORITE PERSONAL FASHION MOMENT IS... my first L'Uomo Vogue cover with Prada, shot by Bruce Weber
> THE SECRET OF SUCCESS IS... believing
> THE ESSENCE OF STYLE IS... being natural
> MY PERFECT HOLIDAY IS... sun, beautiful surroundings and friends
> ALWAYS... appreciate what you have
> NEVER... whinge about what you haven't got- just make it happen!