How to choose and wear a double-breasted suit?

Ermenegildo Zegna

I've been watching the runways in Milan this last week for Spring 13 collections and one of the styles that stood out for me across the board was the double breasted jacket/suit. As expected on the runways, it wasn't shown just as the classic conservative version, but was shown done in bright colors and different fabric and patterns which added a lot of fun to break away from the formal and dressy. So i thought just in case you will get inspired for next spring, here are few style tips to help you get the right double breasted jacket...

Gucci

Ports 1961

1. Fitted and tailored - double breasted jacket is one that MUST be tailored to your waist and torso, otherwise it will look bad. when wearing a one or two button jacket you can get away with a bit of a looser fit but similar to a 3 button jacket the double breasted has to hug your body and be fitted. Generally speaking the double breasted looks best on men of medium or tall build.
2. Picked lapels - this is the classic on a double breast jacket, the peak lapels accentuates the shoulders and work nicer with the natural style of the jacket. you can still mix the classic and new by choosing picked lapel that are just thinner rather than the classic wide ones.
3. Four buttons or more - to highlight the fit of the jacket choose a jacket that has at least a four-button closure, meaning two rows of two buttons (make sure to have one additional closure button on the inside of the jacket). This way the neck opening of the jacket is smaller which will make the it more fitted and trimmer. keep in mind that even when you have a six button jacket keep the to two unbuttoned otherwise it will look outdated. stay away from two buttons jacket, it will look too 80's and more like a robe than a tailored jacket.

8 tips to dress up your bermuda shorts!

Who says you cant dress up with shorts, or wear shorts for work??? Unless you are in a conservative, corporate setting than shorts can be as stylish, as respected and as business looking....it will just come down to what are they made in (suiting fabric, Chambray, cotton twill, etc.) and how would you wear them.
As a matter of fact history support that and back in the day Bermuda shorts used to be called dress shorts. They were worn by the British army and were considered appropriate business attire for men when made of suit-like material and worn with knee-length socks, a dress shirt, tie, and blazer.
Here are seven tips that will help you to dress up your shorts:

• Fabric - Pay attention to what they are made in, for example when done in suiting fabrics will automatically make your short more dress appropriate as oppose to washed cotton twill.Generally any fabric that has a bit of shin such as chambray will look good as well.
• Fit - as always this is a crucial element, if you want your shorts to look dressier you need to make sure they are FITTED, cause a looser, baggier shorts will make you look shlumpy and casual so make sure to have them tapered and fitted.

3 easy tips to color your wardrobe for spring!

SPRING=COLORS! That's what spring means to me! the long winter in NY is probably contributing to that as well cause by the time spring is here i am so sick of winter's darker colors and waking up to a shiny sun almost every morning makes me crave more and more colors.
To be clear it doesn't mean that i look like a rainbow version when i leave my apartment but i definitely add some colored brush strokes to my look. Here are 3 ways that any of you whether your style is daring or conservative can add a touch of spring (color) to your daily style:
Colorful socks -  Let's start with the bottom, colorful socks are fun and more than any other item can be worn with your work suit to any important day in the office or to a night on town for your best friends bachelor party, whether you dressed up or down this little shot of color will not take over but will turn heads and just enough attention to your personal style....not to mention the low cost of investment!

Any of these below socks from Paul Smith will do the job.

 Colorful Belt - Climbing up half way to the top a shot of color can turn into a shot of style! I like

Spring shoes - Loafers

Donald J Pliner

Spring is teasing us here in NY, one day its here and the other its hiding behind another grey cold day but no matter how long it will try and hide its just a matter of weeks maybe days before it will surrender itself. These last few sunny days made me start thinking about spring wardrobe....which I'm sure most of you started that same thinking process as well.
How about we'll start from the bottom up...with shoes! More specifically slip-ons that are typically low, lace-less shoes which are commonly known as a loafers. I personally not a big fan of the typical loafers which we all know as the Moccasin, I'm not sure what it is that i don't like about them, could be the tassels or could be just the fact that they are so common and main stream that they lost their unique edge in my view. I like the ones that comes in colors (a perfect way to show style and be edgy but still in a subtle way) that you can wear with long pants, jeans or even with shorts. Here are some of my favorites for the season....Enjoy!

Vivienne Westwood

Adidas Y-3

Spring 2012 - The pleated pant!

The following trend will probably make a lot of men (especially the old school corporate guys) feel as if they are the trendiest people now days. To be honest I'm not sure yet what i feel about the pleated pant, I'm still contemplating it as I'm typing this...on one hand it reminds me of everything i dont like about men's style like these mass produced suits with loose fit and pleated baggie pants (which gave a company like Bonobos a very successful business concept), and on the other hand these pants below from the last runway shows do look good! I guess it brings it back to the point that how you fit, wear and style a piece of clothing is what matters not just the details...Truth to be said is that these mass produced men's pants look baggie and unfaltering not because of the pleats but because of the fit, its big and boxy and the access fabric from the pleats just makes it worse...
Designers did show this season a lot of pants with a dropped crotch, a little slouchy (usually not in full length or just folded), and some wide leg pants as well that looked rich and summery especially in white or other bright shades.

Below: Alexander McQueen, Dolce & Gabbana

 Below: Hermes, Lanvin

 Below: Giorgio Armani, Yves Saint Lauren

Spring 2012 - The shorts suit

The shorts suit is a very sophisticated, summery way to wear a suit, and although i never wore them i did grow to like them over the last few years. I saw a lot of them on the runways (Kenzo especially showed a bunch of them) but the only issue i do have with them is  - what to wear on your feet??? i personally is not a fan of sandals for men (and that is an understatement, I'm planing a whole separate post on that issue...), and wearing shoes (especially the bulky looking ones) with socks looks hideous to me as well...i can live with boat shoes with no socks or any other loafers (especially in fun colors) even if they are more dressy looking ..... or even sneakers...and dont even think about Flip flops.....what do you all think?
Here are some of my favorite shorts suits...(unfortunately i had to ignore the shoes part in most of them....).

Below: Kenzo

 Below: Yves Saint Laurent

Below: Kenzo

Spring 2012 - Plaids!

I love plaids, its such a simple classic men's pattern! Awesome for shirts, great for jacket and even cooler for suits....off course depends on the pattern's size and the colors.
Maybe its because of my love for it that i have noticed it or designer use it because it is such a recognizable pattern for men.... any ways i was happy to see lots of it at the shows and that's all that matters.
so if you are a fan of plaids as well as i am join the party and get inspired before heating these 4th of july sales next weekend....

Below: Jean Paul Gaultier

 Below: Etro

 Below: Raf Simons

Spring 2012 - The Colored suits

This season i decided to do more of an editorial wrap-up for the runway shows instead of just presenting the diferent collection, so  i will gather for you guys the ideas and trends that cought my eyes and that i liked.
As i would expect, the collections were filled with colors (which for me it means that the mood is positive...), blue shades were big and dominating along other fun colors that were going around. I especially loved the colored suits because of how bigger of an impact a color can have, here is my selection of the best (or craziest) colored suits from around the runways...

Below:  Bottega Veneta , Z Zegna

Below: Gucci, Mugler

Spring 2011 Must have - Military shirt

BOAZ small gingham military shirt

The military inspired shirt (or as GQ called it the Epaulette shirt), is the dominating spring/summer style in stores this  season....almost as if it is the new classic shirt that every guy should have in his wardrobe.
In its behalf i will say that it's a very masculine style and a great complimentary for a man's body type! The militant details like the epaulets or the front flap pockets are ones that always look good and add to it the fact that the runway shows have strongly adapted the militant inspiration, and you got yourself a winner for these up and coming hot days!
As always for me the most important part to look for in a shirt is the fit! if the shirt is big and loose than all these above masculine details will make you look like a potato bag rather than A man of style! and we obviously dont want that to happen...Go for a slim fit style or just get a smaller size, let the body of the shirt snug and hug your body and look for a higher armhole so the sleeves will not be too baggy....the fitted shoulders will enhance the impact of the epaulets adding power to your style, so when you roll up your sleeves all this hard work at the gym will pay off...check out our BOAZ shirts for a great fit!

Todd Snyder

As far as colors and fabric choices i would stay with solid colors or subtle smaller stripes and gingham/plaids patterns, it will keep your style sophisticated  which can work for both work and pleasure...stay away  from big load prints and other logos and embroideries......unless its your beach shirt.
Unless you have a fitted athletic body no need to to tack the shirt it, especially if what you'd like to put out there is a younger, cooler feel. At times a tie can be a fun addition which in that case go for a solid color shirt and a casual, cotton, fun tie.....nothing too serious and no silk please!
A military shirt will go great with jeans, or chino and depends on the style could pair with trousers as well.
One last tip - i would stay away from short sleeves and much rather roll up the sleeves...unless young and stylish is not your thing!

Gucci

Burberry

Spring 2011 Must have - Chambray shirt

American eagle

Spring is almost here (i can almost feel it...) and one of my highly recommended must haves for the season is a chambray shirt. The lightens of the chambray and its content (100% cotton) makes it a perfect material for spring/summer and with the recent revival of American style it became a fabric of chioce in almost every men's collections out there, mostly in the form of a chambray shirt but often also as a light blazer or shorts..
The Chambray material was invented in the French city Cambrai during the 16th century and is a plain weave, light cotton fabric with a slight sheen that combines colored warp with white filling yarns. Although the fabric is mainly known in it's indigo blue color (which is also why it's often being mistaken for denim), it is actually available in a variety of other colors such as grays and khaki shades and even in patterns of stripes and checks.
The classic chambray shirt was originally made for the workmen (hence the term "blue collar") and prisoners and is usually detailed with utility details such as front pockets and  top-stitching (usually in white).
Casual - Chambray shirt goes well with just about anything casual and easy, with white linen pants, khaki chinos and even jeans as long as its not the same denim color. Rolled up sleeves and converse sneakers or even some other fun shoes like these Viktor & Rolf  will complete your look.

BOAZ military shirt

Business/dressed - casual is not the only way to sport a chambray shirt. With the right style and fit you can make it work for your business casual as well. The main point to look for is the fit - look for a well fitted shirt (read here for tips on finding a fitted shirt) like this BOAZ chambray military style shirt in the left picture from my new shirts line and you already completed half of the battle, pair it with a fitted flat front chinos or dark fitted jeans and to complete the look tuck in the shirt, add a belt and maybe even a fun tie (cotton in polka dot or gingham will add a sophisticated flair, stay away from silky shiny ties). A casual blazer can be a nice addition and with brogue or oxford shoes you will indeed be A man of style!

Breton stripes tops - a classic staple!

Saint James at Barneys

The Breton stripes long sleeves top is probably one of my favorite easy casual go to items, be it a s light knit or just a simple T-shirt i can hardly find myself passing one when i see it. The combination of  a top that is so classic yet so easy to mix in and add some flair t to spice up a look is just hard to bit! (but yet again I'm a sucker for stripes and plaids...).
Probably when the most of you think of Breton stripes the first association you have is of French sailors (probably wearing a beret and eating a baguette with Camembert cheese....or is that just me stereotyping???) .....well,  there is a very good reason for that and its because originally it all started with the navy & white striped knitted Breton sailor shirt that was created in 1858 by the French Government to simply save sailors lives. The thought was that the vivid stripes will stand out against the sea and will make a sailor who falls overboard noticed easily.

Pablo Picasso

James Dea

But just like any other classic item over the years the Berton striped tops were transformed from working the ocean to working the runways and became a wardrobe staple, especially after they were made famous when icons like Pablo Picasso and James Dean sported them, and later on when the french designer Jean Paul Gaultier made them into his signature flag, using them on everything from tops and dresses to perfume bottles (which i use and love) and even furniture...!

JPG and his striped interior

This spring you'll find many versions of these striped tops depends on your badged,

The Chino pants - why, what, and how to wear?

Shades of Grey on Revolve

This next item on the spring shopping list is been around as a staple in american style for a long time now but just like my previous spring recommendation- the Chambray shirt is being revived with a cooler, more fitted style and fit in the last couple of season which is why it made it to my spring list.
Backround - First of all, what's with the name? The name Chino  is the Spanish term for Chinese, and it refers to the cotton twill fabric that those pants are made out of which was made in China. Just like the Chambray fabric this fabric was originally used for military and work uniforms and was adopted by American style in the 20th century. Since it is mostly made in a khaki color and although it is being offered in a variety of other colors as well the chino is usually confused with khaki pant.
Why: As a cotton fabric the chino is a very comfortable and easy pants for spring, and can serve as a dressier style than for example Jeans and therfore can be used for a smart/ business casual dress code as well as for a relaxed weekend look.  

Fitted chino from Diesel at Bloomingdale's

Band of Outsiders

What to look for - For years the chino was typically done in the khaki color, mostly in a looser/baggier fit and with front darts (clearly everything a stylish guy should stay away from), but over the last couple of seasons with American style gaining popularity the style offerings have adjusted accordingly and the younger, sophisticated customer adopted the chino. A more fitted, tapered style was introduced ( Bonbons built a great business around that one specific concept), the color range expended to offer everything from subtle light grey to navy, army and all the way to brighter colors and even the jeans trends of casual worn/vintage look were adopted offering different washes and fabric treatments, all ending up making the classic chino a sleek and stylish item for every guy! So when you look for a chino most importantly look for a fitted style, no bagginess around the hips, no access fabric in the rise and the butt area and please no front darts! The leg shape is according to your preference, if you feel good with a skinny leg than go for it but as long as the hip and thigh areas ares fitted a straight leg or bootleg will do just as fine.   

Life after denim on Revolve

Shades of Grey on Revolve

How to wear - The diversity of the chino is a big advantage and is one of the main