How to choose and wear a double-breasted suit?

Ermenegildo Zegna

I've been watching the runways in Milan this last week for Spring 13 collections and one of the styles that stood out for me across the board was the double breasted jacket/suit. As expected on the runways, it wasn't shown just as the classic conservative version, but was shown done in bright colors and different fabric and patterns which added a lot of fun to break away from the formal and dressy. So i thought just in case you will get inspired for next spring, here are few style tips to help you get the right double breasted jacket...

Gucci

Ports 1961

1. Fitted and tailored - double breasted jacket is one that MUST be tailored to your waist and torso, otherwise it will look bad. when wearing a one or two button jacket you can get away with a bit of a looser fit but similar to a 3 button jacket the double breasted has to hug your body and be fitted. Generally speaking the double breasted looks best on men of medium or tall build.
2. Picked lapels - this is the classic on a double breast jacket, the peak lapels accentuates the shoulders and work nicer with the natural style of the jacket. you can still mix the classic and new by choosing picked lapel that are just thinner rather than the classic wide ones.
3. Four buttons or more - to highlight the fit of the jacket choose a jacket that has at least a four-button closure, meaning two rows of two buttons (make sure to have one additional closure button on the inside of the jacket). This way the neck opening of the jacket is smaller which will make the it more fitted and trimmer. keep in mind that even when you have a six button jacket keep the to two unbuttoned otherwise it will look outdated. stay away from two buttons jacket, it will look too 80's and more like a robe than a tailored jacket.
4. Jacket length - you want to keep it on the shorter end (which nowadays you might be used to anyways since it became the trend), so somewhere around 1-2" above the crotch of your pants should do the trick.

   

   John Varvatos

5. Keep it buttoned - unbuttoned double breast jacket looks weird, and again for the same reason of highlighting the nice fit keep it close! If you want to feel a bit looser than at least button the inside button (that helps to keep the suit fastened eliminates the flapping and keeps the lapels in place), and the button at the waist point which will still keep the fitted shape of the jacket.
6. Color - If you want to give a dash of fun to your double breasted suit and take it from the conservative/serious look and into a fun, playful mode go for a color. To keep it classic but still out of the norm (pinstripe  and black will be more formal and business like)go for navy and than use colors on the other accessories (re; shirt, tie, pocket square etc.)
7. Spread collar shirt - Although this next tip was totally ignored on the Spring 13 runway show, i still think its important to follow: Since the neck opening on a double breasted jacket will cover a larger part of the tie, wear a spread collar shirt and use a  wide classic tie  with a full-Windsor knot so your tie will have more impact.
8. Pocket Square - this is an easy, simple way to add a touch of color and fin to any suit and more so to the double breasted. don't pas on this option of showing personality in your style!

   

   Canali

   
   

   

   Gucci

   
   

   
   

   Burberry Prorsum

   
   

   

   Jill Sander

   

   Gucci

   
   
   All photos are credited to style.com